THE ORIGINS OF THE MODERN MEN'S LOOK
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| 18th & Early 19th Century England |
By Maggi Andersen
Regency men
It was not in France but Britain that the classic style of
clothes worn by men today began to evolve.
During the Georgian period, upper-class Englishmen were busy
running their country estates. They
needed fabrics which supported their sports, travel and life in the
countryside.
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| 18th Century Frenchmen's clothing |
18th
Century Frenchmen’s clothing
Surprisingly, the French, who remained in court and dressed
accordingly, came to admire the sensible dress of the English. And in the
1780s, France became obsessed with all things English. This frenzy was known as
Anglomania. Sir Walter Scott describes it well: “France, who had so long
dictated to all Europe in matters of fashion, seemed now herself disposed to
borrow the more simple forms and fashions of her ancient rival.”
Aside from the adoption of English butlers, carriages, dogs
and horses, the French began to use wool for jackets instead of the traditional
silks and satins. The French Revolution influences this, with the turning away
from aristocratic forms of dress.
This resulted in a turning away of bright colors for men.
The colors of jackets were limited to brown, grey, dark green, blue and black.
Blue was acceptable for any occasion, and black reserved for morning (informal)
or for eveningwear.
Regency riding boots
Boots were de
rigueur, and by the 1820s trousers became the dominant item of clothing for men
instead of breeches and pantaloons. The colors were predominantly tan, white,
blue, grey and, occasionally, black. Normally one plain color but sometimes
pin-striped. Materials were wool, cashmere, corduroy, cotton, linen, leather
and silk.
Waistcoats were the main item used for color and variety.
Sometimes two waistcoats were worn simultaneously to show contrasting colors.
They were made in a variety of fabrics and often exhibited expensive
embroidery. Many wore white or flesh colored waistcoats to give the impression,
should the man remove his coat, that he was naked. Influenced by the Grecian
Ideal, men were proud of their bodies and sought by fair means or foul (a
little padding or corsetry) to display them at their best.
Shirts were white linen. A great symbol of flair and
individuality was the cravat, which required several meters of expensive
cotton. Tying it took a considerable amount of time and assistance. These were predominantly white, although some
striped fabrics were used, similar to ties worn today. By the Regency era,
cleanliness became an important factor and white fabrics demonstrated that the
wearer’s clothing was clean. Regular bathing and the use of soap replaced the
heavy use of perfume to disguise body odor.
The movement away from powder, perfume wigs, silks, lace,
embroidery and stockings segregated the fashions of men and women to become
more like our modern day understanding of menswear and masculinity, through the
many changes during the Victorian and Edwardian periods.
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| Bridegroom's Attire |
Groom’s attire
1900′s-1920′s (Edwardian Period): A frock coat (a double
breasted long coat) was widely worn as part of men’s formalwear during the
Edwardian and Victorian periods. By 1910, three-piece suits became more popular
than frock coats, but the slim fitted jackets and trousers were still worn.
And up to the present day...
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| Contemporary Male Attire |
Maggi Andersen, Author of The Reluctant Marquess
Website: http://www.maggiandersenauthor.com
Twitter: http://twitter.com/maggiandersen
Facebook: Maggi Andersen Author
Resource: NAPOLEON and the Empire of FASHION 1795-1815
Skira.
FASHION IN THE TIME OF JANE AUSTEN Sarah Jane Downing Shire
Library.
